As the moon sets over a fresh layer of snow, Joe Zanger walks outside into the dark. He guides three cows into a damp shed and kneels down to take hold of Andi Pearl’s udder.
Zanger is a peddler of raw milk. In addition to chickens, two pigs, a beef calf and a donkey, he has three brown and white Guernsey cows that can each produce up to 10 gallons a day. He and his wife, Laura, serve it to their four children for breakfast, lunch and dinner. He donates a gallon to the coffee and juice table at church on Sundays.